Miltonia
(mil-TOE-nee-uh) are part of the Odontoglossum alliance and, whilst
plants tend to be smaller than other Odontoglossums, their flowers are large,
colourful and quite often scented.
Commonly known as the pansy
orchid, they originate from Columbia but most of the plants purchased today are
hybrids.
They are compact, clump-forming
plants with flat, oval-shaped pseudo-bulbs from which 1 to 3 leaves form and one
or more flowering spikes are produced. Flowers are large and quite often
scented.
Flowering:
The flowering season is usually
during late spring to early summer although newer hybrids have extended the
season and it is possible to see Miltonia flowering throughout the year. The
flower spikes grow from the new bulbs. Individual flower stems may last for 4
to 6 weeks.
Successful flowering requires low
temperatures and restricted watering during the winter, whilst maintaining
relatively high humidity and very good ventilation.
Temperature:
Intermediate conditions are
required for most hybrids with a nighttime temperature of 16-18°C
and a daytime temperature of 18-24°C. In
summer, the maximum temperature should be around 24-27°C;
if they are kept higher than this for any length of time they may not flower.
In winter, the temperature should be kept above 14°C;
if they are allowed to get colder than this extra care should be taken to water
less.
Note: To help prevent flower and
bud drop, keep plants away from drafts, radiators and other heat sources.
Light:
Good light in winter but during
the summer months they need to be shaded from direct sunlight. A north facing
windowsill is ideal. If you notice a red pigmentation to the leaves this may be
an indication that the plant is getting too much light and they need to be moved
to a more shady position.
Water:
Keep compost evenly moist, but not
waterlogged, throughout the year. Always water from the top, avoid getting
water on the foliage and allow any excess to drain away. Plants grow most
actively during the summer when they should be watered once a week. The autumn
is the time of year when the pseudo-bulbs are ripening and, to encourage
flowering, plants can be kept slightly on the dry side until they start to
flower. When in flower, water more often.
NOTE: NEVER STAND THE PLANT IN
WATER OR ALLOW THE PLANT TO BECOME WATERLOGGED. This will cause the roots to
rot and kill the plant.
Miltonia are very fussy about
water and will not tolerate hard water. Clean rainwater is preferred by the
plant. Do not use water softened by a chemical water softener as this contains
saline salts and will kill any plant.
Feed:
Miltonia need regular feeding with
a weak solution of orchid feed, especially in the summer when it is best to feed
every other watering. Use a balanced orchid fertilizer, such as
Ivens
Orchids’ Orchid Feed.
During the autumn, feeding once a month should be sufficient. They do not need
to be fed in winter.
Air Humidity:
Good humidity levels are needed,
(about 50-60%,) so moist air is essential; they also require good air
circulation (not drafts) to prevent botrytis or bacterial/fungal infection. The
plant can be placed on a tray of moist pebbles to help with local humidity or
kept in a room where humid air is present such as a bathroom, kitchen, utility
room or conservatory.
After Flowering:
Cut off old flower stems near to
the base. Next seasons flowers will develop from new pseudo-bulbs.
Repotting:
Miltonia will benefit from repotting
every other spring, the best time being as the new
roots and shoots are developing. It is best not to repot in the summer. It is
important to use orchid compost which has a very open texture usually made from
a mix of moss and bark. Special
orchid compost is available from Ivens
Orchids.
Do not be tempted to use too big a
pot; Miltonia do better when their roots are restricted so use the smallest pot
possible. At the end of the season, it is normal to lose the odd lower leaf or
two and new leaves should develop from the top of the pseudo-bulbs.
Whilst Miltonias can be divided in a similar way
to other Odontoglossums, they do not respond well to constant dividing. It is
far better to pot up regularly and grow a Miltonia into a mature specimen plant.
Basic Repotting Technique:
Tap the plant out of its old
pot and inspect the condition of the root-ball. Shake off any decaying compost
and remove all the dead, soft or black roots. Remove any old black or soft
pseudo-bulbs with no roots but make sure to leave at least 2 older pseudo-bulbs
or “back bulbs”. These pseudo-bulbs help to support the plant should it become
stressed after repotting. Use the smallest pot possible. Support the plant in
the centre of the pot and feed fresh orchid compost around the root-ball. Do
not pack the compost in too firmly, as these plants prefer a free draining pot.
Always dampen down the compost before potting and only water sparingly for the
first 2 weeks after repotting allowing the plant to get used to the new compost.
Pests:
Prevention is always better than
cure so look for good healthy plants to start with and keep them that way with a
clean environment for your plants. Throw away old, weak or infested houseplants
and maintain good housekeeping in the greenhouse. Most often seen pests are
scale insect, aphids, thrip, bush snail and red spider mite. All of these will
weaken the plant if left unchecked. The scale and aphids may be cleaned off
with soapy water, (if found early enough,) otherwise treat with a specific
systemic insecticide.
Buying Tips:
Always buy good quality orchids
from a reputable supplier and look for clean healthy plants. Unless you have
ideal transportation and growing conditions, buying a plant with immature buds
may be a mistake as some plants can be sensitive to being moved during the early
stages of flower development. Look for plants whose flower buds look quite plump
and ready to open.
Special Notes:
If new leaves come
through “concertinaed”, this is normally due to erratic watering or the plant
getting too hot or drying out and is most likely to occur during the summer.
Make sure the plant is regularly watered and also try increasing humidity and
cooling down the leaves by a light overhead misting of the foliage.